Sikkim, India.
Flew from Bhutan
back to north-eastern India. Had a five hour drive up wind-y (not
blowing air but with lots of corners) mountain roads to Pelling. As
we were driving along, readjusting to the heat, chaos and general
madness of being in India the CD selection played “I like to have a
drink with Duncan.......” and then some Irish trad. Weird.
Huge development
happening up here, we passed four hydroelectric plants under
construction and lots and lots of road construction. Apparently India
likes to pour money into the area to convince the locals they want to
be part of India. Sikkim was an independent kingdom from the 17th
century with a Tibetan background. It fought wars and signed treaties
with its neighbours and so kept a degree of self-determination (and
its royals until the 70s) despite being controlled by the East India
Company, then Britain and now India. The present population is mainly
of Nepalese origin.
So arrived at
our hotel to be greeting in a very fancy foyer by two staff in
full-on formal Indian-style uniform, one giving us the traditional
himalayan white scarf welcome and the other profferring glasses of
sherry on a silver platter. Delightful. After being shown to our
(very noice) room through the (also very, very noice) lobby I had two
panicked thoughts: we have no appropriate clothing to wear in this
hotel, and did I miscalculate the number of zeros on the room rate?
For the past
three days we've done absolutely nothing except enjoy the views of
the forested hills stretching up to the snowy peak of the world's
third highest mountain. We've lounged around the room enjoying the
view. We've lounged around the lobby enjoying the view by the
fireplace. We've enjoyed the view from the dining room and from the
garden. We've had pre- and post-dinner drinks by the fireplace. We've
been generally completely spoiled. And the hotel is managed by an
incredibly friendly and welcoming Australian/Tibetan couple so that
the whole place feels like a big B&B.
The scenery here
is basically the same as Bhutan but with much more development so
that the hillsides and dotted with villages and terraces. The
managers here say its increasing all the time.
We did drag
ourselves out to visit two monestaries and the ruins of the 17th
century former capital/palace of Sikkim. And we walked to the nearby
village to have lunch on a different lawn with a view of the
mountains. It was a refreshing change to get out and about without a
guide and to wander into monestaries with no tourists where you
weren't completely certain if you should be there or not.
I highly
recommend a trip here if you're in the market for a rest in pretty
surrounds and a touch of spoiling. I'm so relaxed I occasionally
forget to breathe.
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