Karl and Kara In The Himalaya

Ladakh Trek: Lamayuru to Chilling. So we set out (somewhat tentatively) on our first trek. Just the two of us setting off for a simple walk in the valleys. With our guide. And our cook. And our horseman. And six horses. We were sitting enjoying a final beer in the village where we were starting the trek and saw a horse wander by with a bell around its neck going “dingly dingly dingly”, then another horse, and another etc. etc. dingly dingly dingly in the middle of a very small and quiet village. The major event of the day I'd say. Then we noticed that they were all led into our campsite. That's when it dawned on us that they were our horses. Ah the embarrassment of the white, colonial, ruling classes setting off on some crazy expedition. And to make it worse we were drinking outrageously overpriced beer stamped with “Possession by other than defence personnel is punishable”. Travelling light Fabulous trek. Five days walking, six nights in a tent, wonde

Pangong Tso. Karl's great acclimatisation plan – drive over a 5300m pass and stay overnight at 4300m. In fairness, this is a beautiful lake. It's maybe the highest/biggest saltwater lake in the world/northern hemisphere/asia. Something like that. It's on the border between India and China. Because it's the end of the tourist season all the campsites had closed, there was hardly anyone around and you could sit by the lake all afternoon (as we did) feeling like the only people in the world. Our room in (possibly the only open) homestay. Karl outside our homestay.   Lake makes a pretty good beer cooler too.   The roads were a little scary at times (though Valium worked wonders on the way out) but the army and road people have helpful signs to keep you amused at least if not safer. “After whiskey, driving risky”, “If married, divorce speed”, “Better Mr. Late that the late Mr.”. I feel the work of military personnel in the mess after a few b

Julley from Leh!   Escaped from Delhi to to the northwestern corner of India in Jammu-Kashmir province. Up in the mountains and highly militarised with the China and Pakistan borders nearby (and remaining contested with occasional incursions). Amazing flight with a beautiful sunrise breaking through the cloud below like lava oozing out. Dramatic landing in a small valley with the plane's wingtips scraping a few peaks on the way down. It's a different world, so much space, and quiet, and air (although a little low in oxygen). Leh is a decent sized town serving the surrounding rural area and is now also a big tourist centre. Nicely slow-paced atmosphere perfect for chilling out. First couple of days we just hung out at the guest house under strict instructions to do nothing while waiting to acclimatise. It started to feel like a surgical ward with the new arrivals (day 1 post-op) restricted to transferring from bed to chair in the room and jealously eyeing